This afternoon, I stayed in and installed an AEK Trigger on Shenanigun’s Smith & Wesson M&P 9mm pistol. Courtesy of APEX Tactical Specialties, the addition of the AEK trigger provides a reduction in pre-travel and over-travel resulting in a perception of an improved trigger pull. This trigger may stand alone, or further enhance APEX Tactical parts already in use for competition or duty/carry.
Installation of the aluminum trigger requires moderate skill; please be sure to review Randy Lee’s installation video, as well as the photos below to assist with a DIY install. The most difficult step with this install is properly drifting the trigger pivot pin. A pin block and appropriately sized and type of pin punches will make it VERY easy. A vise is another option.
Following installation, I did perceive a notable improvement over the spongy OEM trigger. The Center Mounted Pivoting Safety bar and the flat trigger face were also perceived improvements.
Priced at $74.85, I have difficulty recommending it to those without extensive trigger time behind their OEM M&P. For those who are aware of APEX Tactical’s reputation for innovating practical parts and are able to perceive M&P shortcomings with OCD-like consistency, then it may be worthwhile to purchase the aluminum version of the AEK.
I might be more receptive to a polymer version of the AEK based on cost alone. Release date TBD. Otherwise, the AEK is good to go.
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- OEM trigger. The AEK Trigger kit comes with an aluminum trigger with a pivot pin pre-set. Slave pin also included for a more trouble-free assembly of the trigger return spring.
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- Drive out the roll pins.
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- AEK Trigger close up.
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- I should invest some time creating a wood block for pin driving.
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- Rotate slide retention pin counter clock-wise and pull out.
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- Push this trigger pivot pin from RIGHT to LEFT.
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- Be mindful of the retainer clip in the locking block.
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- View of retainer pin before removal.
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- Remove sear housing block. Pin punch can be used against the rail for leverage.
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- The ejector. Don’t lose this either.
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- Small punch to drift the pin to release the trigger bar.
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- May be easier to remove the spring before proceeding.
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- It’s not necessary to drift the pin out all the way.
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- Install trigger bar on the AEK trigger.
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- I prefer to drift the pin in further to provide a semi-snug fit before driving the pin home. It took me a few tries to get it to protrude appropriately.
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- As Randy recommends, be sure the pin is below flush on each side of the AEK trigger.
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- Installing the slave pin with bullet nose first, from left to right.
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- Trigger bar back on the sear housing block assembly.
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- Install assembly back on the frame.
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- Be sure that the slave pin is flush to properly set the locking block.
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- Trigger pivot pin from left to right.
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- Slave pin drifting out.
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- Drive the locking block roll pin home.
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- During this trouble shooting phase, it’s only necessary to drive the sear housing block rolling pin half way.
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- By trouble-shooting, you may find the that sear will not disengage the striker. The loop will need to be adjusted to provide additional over-travel. It took a few tries to set it appropriately.
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- Done.
Should have just bought a glock 🙂
rhinoaz, I’ve had seven Glocks since 2000 in various configurations and have more experience with them than any other platform. Both the M&P and Glock have there positives and negatives but as the 10+ times as large Glock aftermarket shows, not everyone agrees with what Gaston defines as “perfection”. In fact, that’s why they are on their 4th Generation to fix some things while they break others.
Nicely executed and easy to follow. Thanks for these! Really helps.